Sweet-and-Sour Grilled Salmon

There’s nothing like a whiff of charcoal on the evening air to make me think all’s right with the world. SAM

1 1/4 cups firmly packed light brown sugar
1 cup dry white wine
1 cup soy sauce
1 medium onion, thinly sliced
1 (1-inch) piece of ginger, thinly sliced
3 cloves garlic, diced
4 salmon steaks (about 2 pounds)

Place the salmon in a shallow dish. Combine the brown sugar, wine, soy sauce, onion, and garlic and pour over the salmon. Cover and refrigerate for 8 to 12 hours, turning occasionally. Spray the grill with nonstick cooking spray and prepare the charcoal. Grill the salmon 4 to 6 inches above the coals for about 30 minutes or until it flakes easily with a fork.
Makes 4 servings.

Zucchini Sole

So, ‘still have friends and family hanging around from the Fourth? Serve them this easy fish casserole. Zucchini are in farmers’ markets now. Buy long, dark green ones as small as possible or use the new, light green round ones—they’re very mellow. There’s no need to press either kind. You’ll want all the juices. SAM

1 pound small zucchini, coarsely grated and divided in half
2 medium sweet onions, finely grated and divided in half
2 pounds sole fillets
Salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste
1/4 pound Monterey Jack cheese, grated and divided in half
1/2 cup dry, seasoned breadcrumbs

In a greased 2-quart casserole, layer half the zucchini, then half the onion. Fold the sole fillets in half end to end and layer on top of the onion. Season with salt and pepper. Top with half the cheese, then the remaining zucchini and onion. Combine the remaining 1/2 cup cheese and breadcrumbs. Sprinkle over the top and bake at 350 degrees for 30 minutes.
Makes 4 servings.

Poached Flounder with Lime, Ginger, and Lemon Grass

This flounder is all fire and bite. The recipe comes from my NYC friend Marion, and it’s like an exotic whiff of French Indochine. ‘Makes me feel like I’m in a Marguerite Duras novel with mysterious lovers on trains in the night and moonlight slipping through smoky windows … Garnish it with chopped cilantro and red and yellow cherry tomatoes. Who knows where this one could lead? SAM

2 limes
1 (2-inch) piece ginger root, thinly sliced
3 cups water
4 (6- to 7-ounce) fillets flounder
2 tablespoons finely chopped lemon grass

Grate 1 tablespoon zest from one of the limes and set aside. Slice both limes thinly. Add half the lime slices and half the ginger to the water and bring to a boil. Place the fillets in a large shallow pan or fish poacher over high heat and pour the water mixture over them. Top the fish with lemon grass, zest, and the remaining ginger. When the water returns to a boil, lower the heat to medium and poach for 5 to 10 minutes until the fish flakes. Serve immediately.
Makes 4 servings.