Bon Voyage!

Last day in Paris and here’s what you do with Quick Tomato Sauce: Pour 1/2 cup of boiling water over 1/2 cup of couscous. Add salt and a little butter or olive oil. Cover and steep for 3 or 4 minutes, then fluff with a fork. Pour sauce on top, sprinkle with grated Parmesan, and stir in a couple of tablespoon of heavy cream or crème fraîche. Serve with a fresh baguette. Fabulous!

Nationwide strike beginning here tonight for trains, buses, and Métro. ‘Perturbations’ are expected to be extreme. If you don’t hear from us for a couple of days, we’re stuck in transit. But, with luck, we’ll see you soon Stateside.

Ciao,

Sam & Harry

Quick Tomato Sauce

Need a quick, last-minute tomato sauce? Here it is! Sam & Harry

2 pounds fresh tomatoes
1/2 stick sweet butter
1 medium onion, peeled and halved
1 bay leaf
1 tablespoon olive oil

Peel, quarter, and seed the tomatoes and squeeze out any juice. Cut into 1/2-inch chunks and place in a small stockpot with the butter and onion. Simmer over medium-low heat for 30 to 45 minutes. Discard the bay leaf. Remove the onion, thinly slice it, sauté it in 1 tablespoon olive oil over medium heat, and return it to the sauce.
Makes 2 cups.

Tomato Coulis

A coulis is a juicy puree made from vegetables, fruits, or shellfish. Layer this spicy Tomato Coulis on sandwiches or use it as a sauce for roast pork or beef or a topping for polenta or rice. It also makes a great dip. Sam & Harry

1 large red bell pepper
2 tablespoons olive oil, divided
2 pounds very ripe, fresh tomatoes or 28 ounces canned tomatoes with juice, divided
6 garlic cloves, slightly crushed and peeled
2 bay leaves
2 sprigs or 1 teaspoon fresh thyme
1/4 teaspoon toasted, ground cumin
1/4 teaspoon curry powder
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
Sea salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste
Polenta, pasta, or rice
Grated Parmesan and chopped parsley

Core and seed the pepper and slice into 1- by 1/4-inch strips. In a medium chef’s pan over medium-high heat, heat 1 tablespoon of oil and sauté until the pepper begins to change color, about 3 or 4 minutes. Roughly chop the tomatoes and add to the peppers, along with the garlic, bay leaves, thyme, cumin, curry, vinegar, and remaining 1 tablespoon oil. Stir occasionally, adding tomato juice or water by tablespoons as needed until the tomatoes form a thick sauce. Season with sea salt and pepper. Discard the bay leaves and thyme. Serve over polenta, pasta, or rice garnished with Parmesan and parsley or spread or pizza crust or serve as a dip with corn chips or toasted pita.
Makes 4 servings.

Sautéed Shrimp in Cumin Cream Sauce

Here’s a quick, easy, wonderful way to sauté shrimp. Cook them as quickly as possible and serve over just about anything you like. Sam & Harry

1 pound medium shrimp, peeled and cleaned
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/8 teaspoon toasted, ground cumin
1/4 cup dry white wine
2 tablespoons crème fraîche

In a medium skillet on medium high heat, sauté the shrimp quickly in the oil, one side 30 seconds, then the other side 30 seconds. Add the cumin and stir 1 minute. Add the wine and reduce for 1 minute. Remove the shrimp to a warm plate. Continue reducing the sauce until slightly thickened. Stir in the cream. Pour over the shrimp and serve on pasta, rice, couscous, or in a mixed salad.
Makes 2 servings.

Lentil Market Soup

This hearty cold-weather market soup is especially tasty with cream! SAM & HARRY

1 cup small gray-green lentils
6 cups water, divided
4 tablespoons olive oil, divided
2 medium onions, thinly sliced, divided
3 cloves garlic
2 teaspoons toasted, ground cumin
3 medium carrots, thinly sliced
2 medium turnips, diced
3 new potatoes, diced
1/2 cup dry sherry
2 bay leaves
1/3 cup polenta
Sea salt and freshly ground white peppercorns to taste
Crème fraîche or heavy cream

Pick through the lentils and rinse. Place in a stockpot with 3 cups of cold water and 1 thin slice of onion, cover, bring to a low boil, and simmer for 25 minutes or until soft.

In a large chef’s pan over low heat, sweat the onion and garlic in 1 tablespoon oil, stirring occasionally, about 30 minutes. Raise the heat to medium high and add the cumin, stirring until fragrant, about 3 minutes. Add the carrots, turnips, potatoes, and sherry and cover until hot, about 3 minutes. Uncover, add the bay leaves and sauté until vegetables are tender, about 5 minutes. Add the cooked lentils and any pot liquor. Reduce the heat to low.

In a small saucepan over high heat, bring 1 cup of lightly salted water to a boil. Remove from the heat and slowly whisk in the polenta. Return to low heat and whisk until thick, about 1 minute. Add 1 tablespoon oil and stir into the lentil mixture. Add 2 cups water. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Simmer until reduced by 2 cups, stirring frequently. Serve with a tablespoon of crème fraîche or heavy cream stirred into each bowl.
Makes 2 quarts.

Pasta con Fagioli and Pancetta

This recipe comes from Emily’s friend Dorothy who loves all things Italian. Make it on a cold night and please everyone at your table. SAM & HARRY

1 1/2 cups borlotti beans, also called shellie or cranberry beans
3 to 4 cups chicken broth or water
2 slices pancetta, chopped in 1/2-inch pieces
1/4 cup olive oil
3-4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 teaspoon red chili flakes
Sea salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 pound fettuccine, cooked al dente
Fresh basil or parsley, chopped
Grated Parmesan

In a covered medium chef’s pan, simmer the beans without salt in broth or water until soft, about 45 minutes. Sauté the pancetta till a little crisp. Add the olive oil, garlic, and pepper flakes. Cook 1 minute. Add the beans and any pot liquor. Simmer for 10 minutes. Add the pasta and toss. The pasta will absorb the liquid from the beans. Sprinkle with basil or parsley and top with Parmesan cheese, if you like, but real Italians use cheese only on pasta cooked with butter.
Makes 4 servings.

Roast Chicken and Mushrooms with Fresh Pasta

In Paris markets, chickens are roasted at least twice a day. Follow your nose to the best boulanger and pick out the plumpest, crispest bird in the bunch. You can fix many quick and simple meals with fresh roast chicken. This mushroom-pasta dish is one of the best. SAM & HARRY

2 pounds onions, thinly sliced
4 tablespoons olive oil, divided
1 pound mushrooms, brushed and thinly sliced
3 sprigs fresh thyme
2 tablespoons marsala
4 ounces soft goat’s cheese
4 quarts water, plus 1/2 cup, divided
1 pound fresh tagliatelle or linguine
1 pound roasted chicken, boned and shredded
Grated Gruyère or Parmesan and chopped parsley
Sea salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste

In a large chef’s pan over low heat, sweat the onions in 1 tablespoon oil until translucent, about 30 minutes.

In a large skillet over medium-high, heat 2 tablespoons of oil. Add the mushrooms and thyme and sauté, stirring occasionally until liquid is reduced, about 10 minutes. Add the marsala and reduce, about 2 minutes.

In a medium chef’s pan over very low heat, melt the goat’s cheese in 1/2 cup water, stirring until well blended.

In a large stock pot, bring 3 quarts of lightly salted water to a boil, add the pasta, and cook until al dente. Drain, toss with 1 tablespoon oil, and add to the melted goat’s cheese. Serve topped with onions, mushrooms, and chicken. Season with pepper and garnish with cheese and parsley.
Makes 4 servings.

Polenta with Mushrooms and Shallots

Use whatever mushrooms you find in the markets for this great cold-weather supper. The cheese could be any kind that’s rich and nutty, but fresh thyme makes all the difference. SAM & HARRY

1 tablespoon olive oil
1/3 pound shallots, thinly sliced
1/2 pound forest mushrooms, brushed and thinly sliced
3 sprigs fresh thyme
1 bay leaf
1 tablespoon dry sherry
1 cup instant polenta
3 cups water, plus additional for thinning
2 tablespoon grated Gruyere cheese, divided
2 tablespoons crème fraîche, plus additional for garnish
Sea salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste
Chopped parsley

In a large chef’s pan over low heat, sweat the shallots in 1 tablespoon oil, stirring occasionally, about 15 minutes. Raise the heat to medium-high, add the mushrooms, thyme, and bay leaf and sauté until the mushroom is reduced, about 10 minutes. Add the sherry and reduce, about 2 minutes. Discard the bay leaf and thyme.

In a medium saucepan over high heat, bring to a boil 3 cups lightly salted water. Remove from the heat and slowly whisk in the polenta. Return the pan to medium-low heat and cook until creamy, stirring frequently and adding cold water as necessary, about 3 minutes. Stir in 1 tablespoon of Gruyère and the crème fraîche. Season with salt and pepper. Serve topped with the mushroom mixture. Garnish with additional Gruyere, crème fraîche, and parsley.
Makes two servings.

Cauliflower Gratin

Paris: Day 2
The béchamel for this lovely gratin is made with butter and olive oil—very Mediterranean. SAM & HARRY

1 medium cauliflower (2 pounds)
Juice of 1 lemon (3 tablespoons)
1 tablespoon butter
3 tablespoons olive oil, divided
1/3 cup all-purpose flour
1 cup cold milk
2 ounces Gruyère cheese, grated
1/4 cup, plus 1 tablespoon unseasoned breadcrumbs, divided
Freshly ground nutmeg, sea salt, and white pepper to taste

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Lightly grease a shallow, 1-quart casserole and set aside.

Trim the cauliflower and separate into florets. Place in the basket of a steamer pan over 1 inch of boiling water, sprinkle with lemon juice, cover, and steam for 10 to 12 minutes or until al dente. Set aside.

In a small sauté pan over medium-low heat, melt the butter, whisking until lightly browned. Add 3 tablespoons of oil and whisk until hot. Add the flour all at once and whisk until slightly browned, about 1 minute. Add the milk all at once and whisk until the béchamel is smooth and slightly thickened, about 2 minutes.

In a mixing bowl, combine the cauliflower, béchamel, cheese, and 1/4 cup breadcrumbs and season with nutmeg, salt, and pepper. Turn into the prepared casserole, top with the remaining 1 tablespoon breadcrumbs and the remaining 1 tablespoon oil and bake for 30 minutes or until browned and bubbly.
Makes 2 main or 4 side servings.

Couscous Pasta Salad

Paris: Day 1
Quick … rich … and wonderful after a long airplane flight. We loved it! SAM AND HARRY

PS We bought a jar of good quality pesto at an Italian shop on the rue Montorgueil. It was great!

1/2 cup water
1/4 teaspoon sea salt or to taste
2 teaspoons olive oil
1 bay leaf
1/2 cup uncooked, fine couscous
3 tablespoons Pesto
4 ounces roquette or arugula
4 cherry tomatoes, halved
2 large, marinated artichoke hearts, roughly chopped
1/2 cup steamed broccoli florets
3 to 4 tablespoons Mustard Vinaigrette

In a small saucepan, combine the water, salt, oil, and bay leaf and bring to a boil. Place the couscous in a small mixing bowl, pour the boiling water over it, cover, and let sit for 5 or 10 minutes. Fluff with a fork and add the Pesto, mixing gently but thoroughly. Add the roquette, tomatoes, artichokes, and broccoli and toss the with vinaigrette.
Makes 2 servings.